- 廈門 Xiamen --> 田螺坑土樓 Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster --> 和貴樓 Hegui Lou --> 雲水謠 Yun Shui Yao --> 懷遠樓 Huiyuan Lou --> 田螺坑土樓民宿 B&B at Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster
- 裕昌樓 Yuchang Lou --> 翻身樓 Fanshen Lou --> 塔下村 Taxia Village --> 河坑土樓 Hongkeng Tulou Cluster --> 廈門都市精品酒店 City Exquisite Hotel
一早吃完早餐後和今天要反回台灣的家人說再見, 撘上計程車前往客運站, 獨自展開我的世界文化遺址福建土樓背包之旅.
從廈門到田螺坑土樓土樓約四個小時, 車 子比想像中新, 每台車都有車掌小姐, 乘客都可以用手機跟車掌小姐連絡, 隨時告知車子所在位置, 並可約大約幾點在哪兒上車之類的. 我的在地導遊小李也是這樣和車掌小姐聯絡確定我是否上車以及何時到站. 這種很沒管理模式的經營方式還蠻有人情味的吧?! :-)小李是個家住田螺坑且高中畢業不久的在地小伙子, 我是在背包客棧上找到他當導遊並安排在田螺坑住一晚. 我們的交通工具就是他的摩托車啦~
Saying goodbye to my family, who will go back to Taiwan today, I left for my backpack trip to one of the World Heritage Sites, Fujian Tulou.
It took about 4 hours by bus from Xiamen to Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster. Besides the driver, there was a female server in the bus to check tickets and to communicate with the passengers. The local people and passengers could call the server to ask where the bus is and when they could get on the bus at certain stop. My local guide Lee called the server to ensure that I caught the bus and asked when he could pick me up as well. It's such a customized service, isn't it? :-)
Lee lives in Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster and graduated from the senior high school not long time ago. I found his B&B and service from a backpacker website. All the way we took his motorcycle.
土 樓特殊的建造方式主要是為了防土匪, 外牆由非常厚重而結實的生土建構而成, 形狀上多為圓形和矩形; 各個土樓又各有奧妙, 有的中間是多層的設計, 有的歪歪斜斜卻屹立不搖, 有的大門上有設計倒水消防功能預防土匪燒門, 有的戶戶有井水等等. 其中田螺坑土樓群是由五個土樓所組成, 中間一個方的土樓被三個圓形土樓和一個橢圓形土樓所包圍, 所以俗稱"四菜一湯".
每座土樓裡每戶的一樓是都餐廳, 二樓是倉庫, 三樓以上是臥房, 因此每一戶其實也是從下到上一棟, 只是樓梯不在自家而在外面共用, 每層樓又以公共走廊相通, 以利防禦. 最大的土樓規模有到七十幾戶人家, 同住一個土樓群的通常都是同姓氏的親戚, 彼此非常親近, 這是在現代社會幾乎已經不存在的群居模式.
Tulous were built as defense because of the bandits. They are enclosed buildings with very thick earth walls, mostly rectangular or circular in shap. Each tulou has its own speciality. For example, Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster consists of five tulous, which are a square tulou at the center and three rotunda ones and an oval one surrounded. Therefore it's known as "four dishes and a soup".
Each family in a tulou has a dining room on the first floor, a warehouse on the second floor, and bathrooms above the third floor. However instead of having the stairs inside the house, they share stairs and have corridors on each floor. It's good for defense as well. The biggest tulou can accommodate up to more than 70 families. Most people live in the same cluster have the same surname, and are relatives. They are extremely close to each other, which is not popular in the modern society anymore.
田螺坑土樓群晚上有打燈 (那天其中一個沒有打). 我住的是綠色的振昌樓, 房間還算乾淨整潔, 只是這個綠打在古老的建築上有點詭異ㄟ... 還好人氣旺盛, 氣氛不至於令我害怕, 晚上也睡得不錯. :-)
At night, the tulous were lighted up. The B&B I I stayed at was in green. Personally I thout that it was a weird color, especially for this kind of old buildings. However there were people so I was not really scared. I had a good sleep. :-)
土樓的生活很原始也很簡單.
一場雨下下來大家就在門口聚集聊天等, 沒有咖啡店, 沒有觀景喝茶的地方, 所有的就是在地生活. 小李說, 晚上不知道會不會停電, 我一開始還沒辦法把下雨和停電連在一起, 原來只要打雷當晚就很有可能停電, 說不定要點蠟燭嚕~ (後來並沒有發生)
除了賣觀光客的小販, 當地看到什麼招牌, 但在地人就是知道誰家買肉, 誰家賣菜, 誰會剪頭髮等等, 晚上因為隔壁親戚做了道好菜而跑過去夾著吃也再正常不過. 除了睡覺, 一切都是公開的事, 沒什麼私人空間, 實在是非常奇特的大家庭生活.
關於廁所, 這更要說說...
大陸的廁所沒門, 這個以前去過也體驗過, 所以沒什麼好訝異的. 這次的新體驗是每座土樓裡都沒有廁所或浴室, 所以要洗澡或上廁所都要到土樓外面的公廁. 也因此, 土樓裡為了因應人類的自然需求, 在房間或走廊上會看到各式各樣裝穢物的桶子, 大家就地解決. 這個嘛... 我還真的沒辦法一下子習慣, 雖然我房間裡的已經是個又新又有蓋子的水桶... 我還是決定當天晚上不喝水...
The life in tulou is original and simple.
There is no cafe in the villages and no tea house on the observatories. Everything is local. When it rained, everyone gathered at the hallway in front of the only entrance to wait, to chat, to do something, or to do nothing. If there is a thunder, the chance of having no electricity at night is high.
Except of the shops for tourist, I rarely saw signboards. However the local people know which family sell beef, which family sell vegetables, where the barber is, and etc. During dinner, it is not even odd if someone go to the next door to take a dish which he or she likes. Almost everything in the daily life is shown in public, except of sleeping. It's a very special big-family life model.
Next I would llike to talk about the toilet...
Sine I visited China before, I was not surprised at the toilets which had no doors. This time the new experience was that there was no toilet in each tulou! Therefore in fact the residents all need to go out of tulous for public toilets and baths. To take care of the human natural, there are all kinds of containers on corridors or in rooms for people to "use" right away. Well, it was the thing which I couldn't adapt to right away, although the bucket in my room was quite new and with a cover... I decided not to drink any water after the evening...
好客的居民是當地一大特色, 在地居民似乎不介意觀光客在家門口走來走去. 當我在各個土樓裡到處逛時, 小李總是走到哪坐到哪, 家家戶戶好像隨時都在泡茶, 隨時坐下來就喝茶聊天.第二天我對要收費的土樓感到有點厭煩了, 小李就帶我到一個還沒有維修而且一般觀光客不會去的私房景點, 結果讓我眼睛為之一亮! 感覺古味更濃厚, 荒煙漫草間多了點時空錯亂的感覺, 那裡還有個可愛的爺爺, 不管我聽得懂聽不懂, 反正就一股腦地把我當稀客般一直對我說話, 而他背後的牆上寫滿了文革時期留下來的字句.
河坑土樓我也是以"親戚朋友"的身分免費進去的, 因為路上遇到一對可愛的祖孫, 小朋友更熱心充當導遊一路跟我介紹土樓和植物. 他問: "你從哪兒來?" 我說: "台灣" 他說: "台灣好, 台灣的籃球不會漏氣." 多麼單純又熱誠的孩子.
The residents were very hospitable. They didn't mind the tourists walking around in front of their houses. When I visited a tulou, Lee always sat down and drank tea with the residents, no matter which tulou we were in, and then I would join to get a cup a tea later.
On the second day, I was a bit tired of those tulous where entrance fee were required. Lee took me to a private spot where the tulous have not been repaired and no tourists would go. That's what I like! The atmosphere was even more original. A old man kept talking to me like welcoming a expected guest, no matter whether I understood him or not. On the wall behind him, there were characters left from the Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution.
Further, I visited a tulou cluster for free as a "relative/friend" because I met an interressting grandfather and grandson. We stopped by their home to chat and drink tea. The little boy enthusiastically showed me the buildings in the village and plants on the way. He asked me "where are you come from?" I said "Taiwan." He said "Taiwan is great. The basketballs from Taiwan don't leak." He was cute.
更多土樓之旅的照片在這裡.
There are more photos here.
